Merlon Park

EVENTING FOR DUMMIES


By Sharon Ridgway - B.H.S.I.I. and N.C.A.S. level II
All your hard work and preparation for your first proper One Day Event is nearly complete and this month we will put together an all-important checklist to help you plan a smooth debut outing.
Four weeks before enter your chosen event and book stabling and accommodation. The relevant information should be available in your Horse Trials Handbook or on the entry form. Some events may be just for the day but most require an overnight stay. Check the close of entry date well in advance to avoid disappointment, as most events will not accept late entries. Check all your gear for any repairs that need doing, remember you will undergo a gear check at the event and all stirrups etc must be stitched correctly.
Two weeks before check your horses shoes, a nice fresh set of new shoes with stud holes would be great, as studs may be required depending on the ground conditions at your event. Book in your farrier for early in the week leading up to the event, always avoid shoeing the day before just in case your horse is a little uncomfortable in his new set.
Organise a couple of extra lessons with your coach; a cross-country schooling session would be very valuable the week before to iron out any bumps. A dressage lesson where you can run through your test is also a very good idea, hopefully by now you will know your test off by heart. Remember eventing tests cannot be called; you must perform it from memory. There are several clever ways to learn them, doodle them on paper or on a purpose-designed wipe off pad with the arena marked out. (Available in most tack shops) Another option is to mark out your kitchen floor with paper letters secured by any useful object available like soup cans or tins of baked beans! You then proceed to dance around them tracing out your test hoping that none of your neighbours can see in and think you've gone potty! At this point I always find the dog joins in and it all ends in disaster with pieces of paper and bean cans everywhere! Try and see if your coach can set up a whole course of show jumps for you in a lesson so you are familiar with finding your way around the many twists and turns.
One week before check you have enough feed and some hay available to take with you to the event. Your horse will spend a significant amount of time hanging around either in a yard or tied to the float, some nice hay is a great way of keeping him amused and more importantly keeping you in the good books! Remember he will be missing out on his normal grazing time so hay is a useful substitute for his bulk intake. I always pack some molasses, as I have found not all horses will drink strange water when they are away from home. It is vital to their well being that they don't get dehydrated so a little molasses in the water often sweetens it and does the trick to get them drinking again. Do a washing check on your show gear, are your white saddle blankets clean and your show jumping and XC boots clean and ready to go? Some basic checks regarding your float are best done the week before, if hiring one book it in advance and check to see if you require electric brakes on your car. Most modern floats do require them as a safety measure and it is a relatively simple and cheap option to have them fitted to your car. If borrowing one check your car and the float are compatible, there a couple of different electric fittings and occasionally the chains are not quite long enough. Also in the lead up week I like to do any trimming up that is required. You may wish to pull or neaten up your horses tail, trim his fetlock hair and any unsightly whiskers that are sticking out of his chin and ears. Be careful you can get a little carried away trimming, God put most of that hair on your horse for a reason so beware of making him look like a skinned cat, but a little less like a bush pig would be nice!
The day before is always a busy one, make sure you have left ample time to ride, wash, plait, clean your tack and load the car and float and pack your own riding gear. I love to have everything organised the night before so I can just get up on the morning of the event and load my trusty horse up and get going. Sometimes it is nice to stable your horse the night before you go, this will keep him clean and tidy and save time in the morning. Beware that the occasional horse becomes uncharacteristically wild after a night of solitary confinement so make sure you have practiced it once before, some also get very unsettled inside if they are not used to it, so play that one by ear. Another time saving trick is to plug your stud holes the day before, this will allow you to avoid wrestling with dodgy dirty feet on the big day. A piece of cotton wool dipped in Vaseline will push easily into a clean stud hole with a clench (horse shoe nail) and can be quickly and efficiently removed the next day as you need it. Studs should never be put in the day before as the horses can cut their elbows when lying down or badly rip up the rubber on the floor of your float or truck.
As a summary I will now provide a checklist for your first event and don't forget to enjoy yourself!

Happy Eventing!


Event Checklist

Four Weeks Before:

• Enter event.
• Book stabling and Accommodation.
• Check gear for repairs.
• Two Weeks Before:
• Book farrier - stud holes.
• XC school with coach.
• Ride a Show Jump course in lesson.
• One Week Before:
• Learn Dressage test and practice in a lesson.
• Order feed and hay.
• Clean show whites.
• Clean XC boots etc.
• Trim hairy bits!
• Organise float and check compatibility.

The Day Before:

• Ride.
• Wash.
• Plait.
• Clean gear.
• Plug stud holes.
• Stable horse if suitable.
• Pack clothes in car.
• Pack car and float with:
• Gear including saddles, bridles, girths, breastplate, boots etc.
• Feed and feed bin.
• Hay and net.
• Change of rugs (prepare for all weather)
• Competition whites. (Saddle blankets, boots and bandages)
• Grooming kit.
• Stud box.
• Hoof grease
• Whip/spurs.
• Bridle number set.
• Bandages and wraps for on the way home to ease tired legs.
• Ice tight/Swell down.
• Medical kit for horse and rider.
• Buckets for water (2)
• Washing bucket, sponge and scraper.
• Medical armband.
• XC back number holder.
• EFA documentation if required.
• Times and info with number etc.
• Horse Trials Handbook.

A little bit more about Sharon:

SHARON RIDGWAY,
B.H.S.I.I. and N.C.A.S. level II
- Long listed for the Australian Team from 1992 to 1995.
- Victorian Representative
- Competed at Badminton and Blenheim three day events on "Kilkenny Castle" in 1994 coming 3rd at the latter whilst also winning the Omega watch for the closest to the optimum time XC round.
- Produced many Advanced Eventers all subsequently sold to the overseas market.
- Continue to compete and produce a handful of quality youngsters for sale.
- Working now as an agent to match up potential super stars with their new owners.

Tips on How to Ride a Horse

Riding is a sport and you need to train and practice. For all those people who think all you do is sit on a horse, this is a very wrong assumption. Although having an experienced rider will help you start out, here are some pointers to help get you started. Riding is an amazing experience that everyone should try.

First, find a qualified, knowledgeable riding instructor. If you are new to horses, you should always learn with an experienced instructor.

Stand on the near, left side of the horse. Gather the reins in one hand, put your left foot in the stirrup, and hold onto the wither, (holding onto the saddle when mounting will cause it to slide). Keep both your hands on the front of the horse. You can also hold the cantle of the saddle (back or seat) with your right hand when mounting).

Push up and swing your right leg over the back of the horse, keeping your leg from kicking the horse's flank.

When mounted, gather your reins and then hang both legs down near stirrups and make sure they are the right length by having the stirrup reach your ankle. You should also be able to simply slide your feet into the stirrup while lifting your feet about a few inches

Start off with a slow walk. To ask for this pace, squeeze your legs, (lower calf) and the horse should move off. Only kick the horse if he does not respond to repeated squeezes. You don't want to teach him bad habits by ignoring you. The walk is a 4 beat gait, meaning you can feel when each hoof hits the ground. After a few minutes stop and check your girth, you should be able to fit 4 fingers between the girth and the horse, if you can fit more, then you must tighten the girth.

While walking, make sure to keep your heels down, back straight and chin up. Your body should form a straight line that can be drawn from your heel, to the hips, to the shoulders.

There are two kinds of reining. In English riding, bit reining is predominant. In bit reining, you should pull slightly on the reins to turn the horse's head in order to turn. In Western riding, neck reining or direct reining is used. To neck rein, slide the reins in the direction you wish to go, putting pressure against the opposite side horse's neck that you want to turn to.

Most riders think you pull on the left rein to go left and the right rein to go right. This is true, but not very effective and may cause long term health problems having to do with the mouth of your horse. Learn how to steer with your legs. For example if you want to go left, use your opposite leg (right leg) and put pressure on the horse with the leg. While you are putting pressure with your right leg, "open the door" with your left hand.

That means you loosen up the reins only in your left hand and pull outward like you are opening a door. Doing those two things plus steering with your reins gives you perfect control.

When stopping, pull back on the reins and sit deep; you may have to lean back a bit and put your weight into your bottom and heels. When halted, release reins as the reward and pat your horse. Direct reining is just like bit reining, it is usually used with a green horse, but can also be used with any horse.

Practice the basics, turning in each direction, and stopping and starting until you are completely comfortable on the horse. You may also want to practice mounting and dismounting, as it will help you get more comfortable, especially if you have never ridden before.

Once you are comfortable at the walk, you can try a trot. Trotting is quite bumpy and you may get unnerved and unseated. Do not take anything too fast. It may take a week or two to start to trot. If you are riding English, try posting. Posting is when you rise to the beat of the trot. To post, simply rise and fall, but when you sit down, make sure you are following the horse's outside shoulder (the one closest to the rail). When that shoulder is going forward, you rise. When it is going back, you go down. If you sit the trot, move your hips with the horse otherwise you will bounce and the horse's back won't feel too great.

To get the horse to move forward, as in any other gait, you must squeeze slightly with your legs. The trot is two beats. You should be able to count "1,2,1,2" while your horse is trotting.

When slowing from a trot to a walk, sit deep and pull back slightly on the reins.

Continue trotting until you can post effectively and are comfortable at the trot. Now that you are bouncing in the saddle, do not let your posture suffer and remember to keep your heels down (it was easier for me to post with my heels down than when I forgot and relaxed). Practice turning and stopping right from the trot as well as slowing to the walk.

The next step is canter, this may take months before you start this. To ask for canter, squeeze your outside leg while having it back a bit and squeeze with your inside leg. Before you canter, sit in
trot and then ask, as this will have you sitting ready for the canter. At canter you should sit back slightly, and when you feel you are sitting back too much, you will be sitting back just enough. Or you can go into a half seat when you canter, which is a modified two-point. The two point is the jumping position.

At a canter, you rock forward and backward, with your bottom just slightly off the saddle. Cantering is also known as a lope to most western horseman. Cantering is much faster than trotting and will take time to get used to. Once you can canter, again, stay vigilant with your posture and heels. The more advanced you become, the more details are required to ride properly. Make sure to keep practicing posting and walking while learning how to canter, because these are skills you need to advance.

Leads are important to the canter. If you pick up the wrong lead, the horse will be uncomfortable. The inside shoulder should be leading (it will look as if it is staying ahead of the other shoulder). After picking up the canter, glance down to make sure you have the correct lead. If not, slow down to a trot and pick up the canter again.

Once you are comfortable at the canter, you can move on to a gallop. Galloping is the fastest gait. To gallop, you must be cantering, squeeze your calves just like when changing gaits before.

Galloping is much like a canter, but faster. You should sit slightly forward in the saddle and keep your bottom elevated. Stick with your basics and you should be excellent and fine.

After riding, be sure to cool him down by walking him around. To see if he's cooled off, feel his chest. If it's hot, keep walking; if it's cool, you're good to go. Remember to wash where the saddle was if it's cool enough or use a soft brush where the saddle was.




Tips

• Just Make sure that you start out slow, walk before you trot, trot before you canter, canter before you gallop.
• If you are new to riding horses, you should get a knowledgeable horse person to help, usually a riding instructor or coach.
• Always release your reins when you halt, this rewards the horse and the horse will pull if you don't release.
• Always ask or say something if you have questions because it will help you to learn!
• When you fall off, because you will, just get right back on. If you do not you will think about the fall and it will freak you out to get back on. It is scary but just something you have to do! If you fall off on a jump, get straight back on and do the very same jump again.
• If you fall off and your helmet cracks, buy a new one! Do not ever use a cracked helmet!
• Get to know the horse. Not knowing how it reacts with a human can be dangerous if you approach one.
• Make sure that you feel comfortable on the horse that you are riding. If you are nervous chances are the horse will be too.
• It is wise to have been riding for a few years before competitions and joining a sport. Most of them require more advanced riding styles and techniques.
• Always keep your heels down!
• Always look where you want to go!
• Move with the horse when it moves.
• When cantering or walking, move with the horse. It makes you look better on the horse and makes it more comfortable than having your bum up in the air when cantering!
• Remember to keep your hands steady and don't jerk the horse in the mouth or it will hurt it badly.
• Most horses are trained differently. Check to see what cues or correctly called Aids your horse as been trained to use. As some have been trained using heels, some have been trained using, legs, seat reins, and other things.

Warnings

• Always wear a safety helmet for your protection with the correct standard.
• It is highly recommended that you wear a back protector
• Always wear riding boots that have a a flat sole with a slight heel. (To prevent stirrup slipping too far, resulting in your foot through the stirrup)
• Always wear long pants when riding
• Never sit or kneel near a horse
• Try to always mount from the left side or near side. Horses are usually trained most on this side, but a well trained horse should be handled on both sides equally
• Don't run up to a horse, you can come up behind it but make sure the horse knows you're there and be cautious, you can pat him on his rump and say "whoa" or "easy boy" so he knows you are there! Always move to his shoulder and always talk to him so he knows your coming closer.
• This may seem strange to beginners but try not to feel nervous around a horse. A horse can pick up what you are feeling and when you are nervous, the horse will feel nervous, too.
• Never yank the bit, think that the horse has egg shells in his mouth and he'll thank you by being relaxed and free moving.
• Always have a professional coach or trainer or experienced horse rider with you if you are just learning to ride. You should always ride in the presence of someone else in case of a fall or any other emergency, there will be someone to help you.
• Putting a bridle on is harder then it looks! Horses can stick their heads up and about a million other things!
• Always make sure that the girth is tightened appropriately. Double check before mounting. If you need help, do not hesitate to ask. If you make it too tight, the horse will be grumpy. If you make it too loose, the saddle will slip.
• Horses are sensitive animals. Always make sure you are relaxed and calm around them, so as not to make them feel nervous.
• When you are trotting, keep track of where your feet are. If they are under you, that is fine.
• Never scream on a horses back, even if he gets nervous and starts to trot, don't panic, because the more pressure you put on the horse, the more scared you will make him.
• If this is your first time riding, never try bareback. A lot of girls and boys think that bareback should be their first ride so they can feel the horse underneath them first. Wrong. The saddle is always there for your comfort and protection, and its always safe. Try a bareback session after you ride with a saddle.
• Check this short article for some good safety tips for new riders: Equestrian Horse Riding

Things You'll Need

• A horse
• A bridle
• A saddle pad
• A saddle
• A girth
• Knowledgeable instructor
• Riding Boots
• Breeches or Jeans
• Certified Riding Helmet

Optional items:

• Half chaps/full chaps providing extra grip and support
• Gloves help grip reins
• Monkey Strap
• A stirrup
• A jump